Momentous mountain pass

Atlanta development firm takes over Dillard House

A supper spread at Dillard House/ Photos by Hanna Raskin
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Kip Ramey looked sadly at his monkey dish of apple betty. Poking at its capstone curlicue of whipped cream, he muttered, “Guess they don’t give ice cream anymore.”

“They” is the Dillard House, a Rabun County, Georgia icon that long ago would have had its number retired if the restaurant played ball instead of frying chicken, baking cornbread, and simmering black-eyed peas. In its heyday, which coincided roughly with the Space Race, the paragon of mountain cooking drew 3,000 diners a day with its family-style meals of homegrown meats and vegetables.

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