What's that smell?

Editor’s note: Today’s story is one in a series of monthly contributions from freelance journalists, supported by sponsors who share The Food Section’s goal of showcasing a range of experiences and perspectives. Learn more here about available sponsorship opportunities.

Southside Chattanooga looks like many other gentrified Southern neighborhoods. Remote workers hunch over laptops at third-wave coffee shops. Young families sit down to farm-to-table brunch. Couples on axe-throwing dates sip craft beer. But if you linger long enough, you may notice something off.