Not so much sugar or spice

Fufu in Columbus, beignets in Baton Rouge

Avatar photo
Avatar photo

Even though Olatunji Aiyeola is new to the restaurant business, he’s already dealing with the problems familiar to longtime restaurateurs, including short staffing and crabby Yelpers.

“The food is not as spicy as people think it’s going to be, but I’m trying to create a balance,” explains Aiyeola, who late last month opened Wakis African Kitchen in Columbus, Georgia. “I read the reviews, and I want people to know they should be patient.”


This Article is included for subscribers to South Edition and our All-Access Plan.


Help us cover food and drink across the American South as though it mattered as much as crime and politics (because it does.)