Love, labor, loss

Reflections on Dakar NOLA

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Inventive chefs pride themselves on fiddling with guests’ expectations when they write tasting menus. It’s nearly a professional obligation to switch up techniques so potatoes are smoked instead of roasted, and to swap out ingredients so what looks like chicken soup is really chawanmushi.

But the order in which dishes are served is sacrosanct. Light before heavy; savory before sweet; first before last.

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