Gluten through the generations

New Orleans' vexed relationship with flour

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Editor’s note: Today’s story is the third in a series of monthly contributions from freelance journalists, supported by sponsors who share The Food Section’s goal of showcasing a range of experiences and perspectives. Learn more here about available sponsorship opportunities.


The Thanksgiving table looks curated by Edna Lewis herself, a mandala of serving vessels heaped with food and arranged on an olive-colored tablecloth. A phalanx of collard greens, cheesy squash casserole, potato salad, and mashed root vegetables flank a roasted turkey.

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