Catching them with calves' livers

Riding meat specials into a Hall of Fame

Avatar photo
Avatar photo

Induction into the Arkansas Food Hall of Fame comes with a plaque and invitation to a fancy awards ceremony, but it doesn’t necessarily make an honored restaurant any easier to sell.

“COVID changed the world, I guess, to a degree: It knocked us down about half and still it hasn’t come back,” said Charles Keeney, the 85-year-old owner of Keeney’s Food Market in Malvern, Arkansas. Keeney continues to work 12-hour days at the community institution, known for its ribs, fried pies and Keeney’s willingness to part with any recipe.


This Article is included for subscribers to South Edition and our All-Access Plan.


Help us cover food and drink across the American South as though it mattered as much as crime and politics (because it does.)