Warming to hot slaw

When I was a kid, if Grandma wanted to go out to eat, it usually meant that Mom and I were going to The Green Derby.

The Newport, Kentucky institution was delicious, but no one’s idea of fashionable. The menu, and much of the clientele, had remained consistent for 50-plus years since it opened in 1947. Grandma would go for the comfort of foods from her own youth, such as liver-and-onions, mock turtle soup, coconut cream pie—and hot slaw.