Wake up, wine country

I first saw chef Travis Milton at the Discount Tobacco in Bristol, Tennessee.

Not the living-and-breathing version of the former food festival circuit rider, but a billboard rendition of Milton, who in the 2010s became such a media darling that after he was named executive chef of Hickory—a new restaurant at the Inn at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards, just over the state line in Bristol, Virginia—Food & Wine previewed the place.