October 7, 2025

Time is not on Horse Creek Tavern’s side

Pub lacks oomph four months after opening

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The Big Tony sandwich from Horse Creek Tavern in Graniteville, South Carolina/ Photos by Michael Stern
The Big Tony sandwich from Horse Creek Tavern in Graniteville, South Carolina/ Photos by Michael Stern
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By Michael Stern
Avatar photo
By Michael Stern

Reviewer’s quandary: How soon after a restaurant’s debut should it be appraised? 

Curiosity says right away. Good judgement says to wait until it has perfected its game. Common sense says that when a restaurant charges full price—even if it’s the business’ first day—it ought to deliver just what it promises.

 
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