The Hollow succeeds, weirdly

Comedian Steve Martin once appeared in a Saturday Night Live skit in which he played a pompous gastronome who asks the maître d’ of a restaurant, “What animals do you have steaks of?”

That’s a reasonable question at The Hollow in Columbia, which describes its cuisine as “forest-to-table.” It serves pheasant, duck, quail, rabbit, boar, elk, and bison—a puzzling situation, considering that The Hollow also promises “locally sourced ingredients.” Surely, chef Dante Serra does not get his exotic meats at the Riverside Zoo.