Take a dip. The trout is fine.

Jim Anderson’s a jovial fellow, yet I’ve seen him rebuked at two different farmers markets in the Nashville area. The owner of Bucksnort Trout Ranch, he stands in front of his booth like the barker at a piscine carnival, asking passers by if they’d like a sample of his smoked trout dip. One bite, he says, could convert them on the spot.

“I do engage a lot of people in conversations about it,” Anderson told me.