Sunrise Grill recalls era when eggs were plentiful

Nine out of 10 short-order pancakes are, at best, boring and, at worst, inedible. Their ability to make tastebuds happy seldom goes beyond sponging up obscene amounts of syrup.

All by themselves, the sweet potato pancakes at North Augusta’s Sunrise Grill aren’t so compelling, either. They’re different, that’s true: tender disks that mix a sweet potato taste into the batter. Eaten plain, bite-by-bite, they are vaguely interesting but finally tiresome. Nor does common maple-flavored syrup redeem them. These flapjacks’ savior comes in the form of cinnamon cream syrup. Pour it on, let it seep in. So dressed, they change from austere to fancy, their root vegetable flavor embellished but not overwhelmed. It’s a dish not to miss.