Softshell crabs seize the Holy City

As I write this, I haven’t yet had a 2023 softshell crab. And by the time you read this, I may have missed my chance.

Part of the fun of softshell season is its duration is controlled by the weather, the moon, and, possibly, prayers. Molted crabs are among the few great foods that haven’t yielded to human intervention. They’re also exceptionally delicious—as most any Charlestonian will tell you.