Slow down for these tacos

San Juanito is a braised meat destination

Tacos de cabeza at Tacos San Juanito/ Photos by Michael Stern
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Tacos San Juanito is a restaurant. It is important to make that clear because you will start to doubt it as you pull off Colbert Bridge Road in the East Aiken neighborhood colloquially known as Little Mexico and ramble down a rutted gravel path past a few homes and garages, alongside undeveloped woodlands, finally reaching the end of the trail and a cleared area where you can park on grass. One afternoon when I came for lunch, a group of gents were butchering a cow en plein air in a nearby lot.

Adjoining a well-tended manufactured home, the restaurant is located in a structure that originally could have been a small barn or large utility shed. A little illuminated sign at the building’s roofline says “OPEN.” Enter, and there in front of you is an improvised kitchen and picnic tables arrayed on a concrete floor. More tables are set out on a covered patio.

 
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