Save room for Sue’s in Wagener

Sue’s Grill is not hard to find. There’s a sign for it by the side of Festival Trail Road at the outskirts of the small town of Wagener, South Carolina. Nevertheless, its resemblance to an open-to-the-public business is so slight that it is easy to drive on by. Set back from the two-lane in an isolated brick building, it has a plain façade on which block letters spell out nothing more than RESTAURANT.

Step out of the car and inhale. The smell of sizzling beef says you’ve come to a place where hamburgers matter. Sue’s offers 15 variations, from singles and patty melts to a double-bacon Swiss mushroom triple.

Top of the line, and arguably beyond the strict definition of a hamburger, is the hamburger steak. Fashioned from a patty-and-a-half of ground beef, it comes covered in salty brown gravy and a medley of sautéed peppers, onions, and mushrooms. The gravy and vegetables are optional, but highly recommended because they compensate for the compressed resistance of well-done meat. The plastic fork provided is barely up to the task of pushing down into the steak to sever a bite-size piece from the whole.

The density of Sue’s burger patties isn’t such a problem when dealing with traditional hamburgers that come on buns (nice potato rolls) and are made to be picked up and eaten by hand. Bacon and/or cheese add a good measure of succulence. Sautéed mushrooms add even more. A full complement of condiments and impeccably fresh garnishes transforms it into an enjoyable roadside-diner experience.

When I ask Sue what distinguishes her hamburgers, she shrugs and answers, “love,” then amends the metaphysical explanation by saying her patties always are fresh, never frozen. Customers do not specify degree of doneness, but beef flavor remains even when the meat turns from pink to gray.

Out of the fry basket comes a large assortment of hamburger companions that include steak fries, curly fries, waffle fries, sweet potato fries, mushrooms, okra, and extra-crunchy battered fries. A surcharge of 55 cents buys onion rings; but they are not for onion lovers. The vegetable gets lost within its thick coat, making the dish more like onion-flavored batter.

Everyday hamburger alternatives include hot dogs and chili dogs, sausage dogs, chicken nuggets, fried flounder fillets, and a Philly cheese steak packed with soft shreds of meat and a tangle of the same vegetables that embellish a hamburger steak. For extra juiciness, the cheese steak comes with a cup of au jus for pouring or dipping.

A white chalkboard lists off-the-menu specials. From it, I have eaten a brilliantly seasoned baked chicken breast, shrimp alfredo like baby food, and fried green tomatoes with a thick coat that overwhelms essential tartness. Nonetheless, dipped in accompanying ranch dressing, they invite bingeing.

Sue’s is at once personable and unforgiving. Order food at a counter just inside the front door, unless you’re paying attention to your phone. You will be ignored. For well-mannered customers, whoever is on duty seems to have plenty of time and interest for a discussion of menu choices and options. “Ooo, that is my favorite!” exclaims a staff member when I finally select a Philly steak for lunch.

Once customers have paid, they are given a beverage of choice in a disposable cup (which a sign cautions will not be refilled if a person takes it out the door). Drink in hand, diners look around the crafts-decorated dining area for a seat. It is a cozy place, but tables and chairs are basic enough to seem like furniture in a summer-camp mess hall. 

Clientele is mostly locals and short-haul truck drivers traveling between Wagener and the even smaller town of Perry. The staff welcome all who enter unless they are bare-chested or barefoot or if their pants are belted too far below the waist. A sign out front warns about those debarments.

Finally, I wonder: Has inflation bypassed the town of Wagener? You can eat a thick-cut bologna sandwich (fried or cold) with all the trimmings at Sue’s for $4; a plate of chicken livers will set you back $3.85. The last time I finished lunch, I went into town to Tyler Brothers, the ne plus ultra of rural department stores, and bought a pair of imperceptibly irregular Wrangler jeans for little more than I paid for a burger and fries at Sue’s.

Sue’s Grill: 4112 Festival Trail Road, Wagener, South Carolina, 803-564-6695