Rolling the dice in Vegas

Seeking the South in the Southwest

Gritz Cafe in Las Vegas/ Photos by Hanna Raskin
Gritz Cafe in Las Vegas/ Photos by Hanna Raskin
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The Southern Foodways Alliance’s annual symposium starts one week from today, so you’ll find me in Oxford, Mississippi, which counts as the American South by just about any definition. But the group this year is asking “Where is the South?,” a question I’ve tried to answer in my capacity as columnist for SFA’s Gravy quarterly by going west, north, and east in search of it. The first installment in that series is reprinted below: To purchase a print copy of the Summer 2023 issue, or another edition, visit Hub City Press. And come say hi in Oxford!


Buffets may be passé in Las Vegas, but casual gamblers still want to taste all the world has to offer. So now, instead of steam-table stations, the ritziest casinos open restaurant “concepts,” with each featured global cuisine claiming its own name, menu, and dining room.

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