Pawpaws for refreshment

As one of the nation’s foremost pawpaw enthusiasts and a former novelty soda columnist, Jed Portman is clearly the most qualified pawpaw soft drink critic in the country. Fortunately, when The Food Section asked if he’d be willing to assess Ale-8-One’s new pawpaw-flavored soda for the newsletter, he was game.

According to a spokeswoman for the iconic 99-year-old Kentucky brand, the soda pop created in collaboration with Kentucky State University is a one-time release. “Once it’s gone, it’s gone,” she warned. Launched on August 1, Pawpaw Ale-8 is already sold out online. So, should you race to your nearest retailer for a bottle? Read on for Jed’s opinion.