The house that my husband and I purchased in Macon came fully furnished, and then some: The previous owner left cans of White Claw in the refrigerator, and soup in the pantry. Clearing away everything that was left behind took days upon days of multiple trips to the county landfill.
That’s where the cone comes in. On each landfill visit, an employee would direct us to the correct Dumpster by identifying the number of cones in front of it. From a navigational standpoint, though, I was more interested in the nearby signs pointing to Cox Café. What kind of restaurant advertises at the dump?
My favorite restaurant, it turns out. The latest iteration of a meat-and-two with close to a century of local history, Cox Café is the source of exemplary biscuits and hoecakes enhanced by every fried chicken order.
“The grease we use from frying chicken or pork chops” is responsible for the hoecakes’ gloriously rich flavor, according to owner David Cox.
Originally known as the Bull Frog Café, the restaurant in 1947 opened in an industrial corner of the city crisscrossed by railroad tracks. Cox, a regular customer, purchased the place in 1996.
Each day, the contents of the steam table change. On Thursdays, the lineup’s themed around Thanksgiving, with turkey-and-dressing, green beans, and sweet potato souffle on offer. Fridays are for fish, which can be paired with vegetables including limas, squash, and turnip greens.
To finish the plate, customers are given a choice between a hoecake and a dinner roll. Cox said nine out of 10 insist upon the thin disc of cornmeal.
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