Juniper takes local route to regional fame

Where would you expect to glide utensils into a quail medallion garlanded with a chiffonade of flash-fried collard greens? Probably not at a chrome-banded kitchenette table on the worn wood floor of a small-town general store. But that is where I ate them one evening a while ago: at the Main Street café called Juniper, in Ridge Spring, South Carolina.

Keen as the contrast between sophisticated food and provincial location may be at Juniper, cultural divergence is not why it has become a legendary destination.