It’s a fried chicken frenzy!

Today’s newsletter is sponsored by Shakerag Workshops

One of the great joys of this job is editing Michael Stern on fried chicken. Michael is a fiend for texture, and a legendary champion of folk foodways, so his chicken criticism is a prime example of a restaurant reviewer meeting his match.

Over the years, Michael has sussed out some of the finest specimens in the South, and he’s not stingy with his findings. The Food Section’s paying subscribers know they can count on his weekly column for fried chicken intel they won’t find anywhere else.

But all that Michael can offer on Tuesdays are words and pictures. If you want to taste his favorite poultry, you’ll just have to join us in Aiken, South Carolina on Saturday, May 17 from 4 p.m.-7 p.m. for what we’re billing as Legs & Cans, a free event featuring canned beer, canned wine, and fried chicken from nine area restaurants.

For his fried chicken frenzy, Michael has chosen several restaurants that he’s previously reviewed for The Food Section; you’ll find more below about their signature birds. But we’re also showcasing a few restaurants that haven’t yet appeared in our virtual pages, which means the party’s a chance to get a jump on other South Carolina fried chicken fans.

Mostly, though, the event’s designed to alert people to what The Food Section offers, and the spirit in which it offers it. (Many thanks to party host Cork & Cap for lining up the live band!) If you know someone who lives in or close to Aiken, we hope you’ll share our invite with them; this link is equally good for emailing and texting: https://pp.events/bz6R8ALv

And, of course, Michael and I hope to see you there! If you have any questions—other than “How is it possible to gather so much glorious fried chicken in one place?”—please don’t hesitate to ask: raskin@thefoodsection.com.

UNIQUE CATERING

“For about $10, you get a meal that is wholly Southern. Wednesday’s extravagant turkey wings and Friday’s brittle-crusted salmon patties are soul food standards.

So is Unique Catering’s fried chicken, although it transcends gastronomic pigeonholes, making it all-American. It boasts coating so lavish that you sometimes must look twice to know which part of the chicken you’re eating. A thigh’s gnarled formation of crust is so emphatic that it becomes a wanton food unto itself, not just an envelope for the dark meat it surrounds.”—from “Patrons of soul food heaven can wait,” September 11, 2024

LITTLE HOWIE’S

Michael’s still making visits for his Little Howie’s review, so you’ll have to settle for what I wrote when I put together The Food Section’s guide to the state’s go-to restaurants, identifying the can’t-miss picks in 46 counties.

“Around Bamberg County, Little Howie’s fryer and the cooks who operate it are so respected that Thanksgiving hosts entrust the quick-service restaurant with their holiday turkeys. But should you reach the walk-up window without a thawed bird, a few bucks will buy you two pieces of crisp fried chicken, a dinner roll, and your choice of 25 sides, including spicy rice, limas, and pizza sticks. Don’t forget the sweet tea.”

DUKES

“As in all Carolina barbecues, pork rules. But fried chicken oughtn’t be ignored. Its crisp, salty crust is as nutty-rich as if it was fried in ghee. One good thing about Dukes’ popularity is that so many eaters pile chicken on their plate that serving pans are continually refilled with fresh pieces, hot and crunchy.”—from “Dukes takes the ‘que out of quirky,” July 3, 2024

THE PROPER PLATE

“Restaurants everywhere claim to serve Southern fried chicken; and there is no denying that the great ones really are in the South (and Kansas City). The Proper Plate lists its version not as Southern fried chicken but as ‘crispy fried chicken.’ That’s the truth. It is a joy to sink teeth into savory crust that extends off thighs and breasts. The meat inside is a supporting player.”—from “Earth to The Proper Plate,” May 15, 2024

Remember: That’s not even half of it. Add your name to the guest list now to get the event details in your inbox!