I'll keep this short

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Apologies for bopping into your inbox on a Thursday morning, but my birthday comes but once a year—and all I want for it is 4.6 new paid subscriptions. (What? Oh, for no particular reason.)

If you’re able to help cross that wish off the list, I would very much appreciate it. The Food Section’s award-winning food journalism is entirely dependent on subscription revenue. Plus, you can’t read it if you don’t pay.

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This Article is included for subscribers to Edition and our All-Access Plan.

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