Is it too clever to say that a Los Angeles Mexican Restaurant is angelic? I want to say so because it is important to differentiate between los ángeles, which means the angels, and the bedeviled city in southern California. The restaurant Los Angeles and the City of Angels couldn’t be more opposite.
Out in the country, set back from a winding stretch of Rainbow Falls Road northwest of Little Horse Creek, Los Angeles’ setting is an isle of peace. The grass is green, the air is clear, and freshwater game fish call from Williams Lake out back. The building itself isn’t pretty, but it’s got street cred, country-style. When I happened upon it 10 years ago, it was home to a bait shop and casual café patronized by sporting folk who came to enjoy time in the natural world.
