When I attended an intimate Korean dinner that Jamie Lankford served in Cookeville, Tennessee, I just assumed she’d made one before. For one thing, the food had an expert’s flair. The sujeonggwa (a hot cinnamon punch with dried persimmons) had layers of flavor. The chamchijeon (tuna pancakes) were unctuous and salty, and when Lankford offered seconds, everyone at the table raised their hands to accept. Meanwhile, she served up interesting facts about each dish, like how during the Korean War, American soldiers laid the groundwork for Korean fried chicken. She came across like an old pro.
But until that night, Lankford had never made Korean food before. As I was savoring yet another bite of a Swiss roll cake crusted with peperos (crunchy Korean chocolate snacks), I nearly dropped my fork when she said we were eating her first attempt at the entire menu.
