Getting fresh with wood-fired pies

In the realm of pizza, “I’m from New York,” are fighting words.

At least, that’s how patrons of JMB Provisions seem to mean them when they approach the mobile wood-fired oven operated by Jalen Reeves and Mark Bolchoz. But Reeves—who grew up in Frankfort, New York, a small town east of Utica—says he has no interest in trying to prove his slice savvy to arrogant customers.