Even the fries feel at home at Bruce’s

As a roadside enterprise, Bruce’s Bar in Warrenville, South Carolina makes no attempt to be inviting except for a couple of thrift-store tables outside that offer the hospitality of ashtrays. The inside is predictable: a row of stools at a wooden bar, a few upholstered booths, televisions, dartboards, and, in the back room, pool tables. A sign on the front door cautions guests that concealed weapons are not allowed.

Even if you don’t play pool or throw darts, don’t watch TV, and don’t drink in bars, I recommend you leave the Smith & Wesson behind so you can enter this hallowed dive for a meal.