Charleston Wine + Food is back this week, and I’m upholding my tradition of attending multiple events—a tradition I established back when the festival was founded in 2005. But I’m not here to lord my advance planning over you last-minute ticket buyers. Here’s what remained for sale at press time, with stars signifying the best buys among them (starting with a fringe pop-up you won’t find listed on the official festival website):
**BARKADA, a takeover at Kultura featuring Chef Modou Jaiteh
Wednesday, March 5, 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m.
Originally from Gambia, Jaiteh’s cooking bridges West African flavors with the Lowcountry, and Kultura’s Nikko Cagalagan is always the consummate host. It’s going to be a casual, counter-order affair, but you’ll need to make reservations through Resy.
**Getting to the Core of the American Cider Renaissance ($95)
Thursday, March 6, 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
Cider isn’t on the radar of many Charlestonians, but it should be, because it offers a lot of refreshment, styles, and versatility in cocktail making. This beverage seminar is a great place to begin, and includes Christine Walter of Bauman’s Cider, a fifth-generation farmer, growing apples in Willamette Valley, Oregon. She’s a star in cidermaking and a tireless advocate for the art of turning apples into hard cider.
Ireland Uncorked ($125)
Thursday, March 6, 4 p.m.-5 p.m.
Longtime TFS supporter Paul Clarke, better known to the public as the executive editor of Imbibe, is set to moderate this session. Paul’s always incredibly well prepared when he takes the stage.
Coterie Signature Dinner ($195)
Thursday, March 6, 6 p.m.-8:30 p.m.
If it’s a nice evening, Coterie—which in 2021 took over the space long occupied by local favorite Pane e Vino—has one of downtown’s best patios. (Forecast is clear and chilly.)
The Water Bring We ($250)
Friday, March 7, 12 noon-2:30 p.m.
“Explor[ing] Charleston’s climate change issues” through beer and food sounds complicated, but Shaun Brian Sells’ cooking generally isn’t. If you haven’t checked out his work at Cuda Co., he’s cooking here.
Culinary Village ($145-$185)
Friday, March 7, 2 p.m.-5:30 p.m.; Sunday, March 9, 2 p.m.-5:30 p.m.
Now at Johnson Hagood Stadium!
Island Time ($155)
Friday, March 7, 2 p.m.-4:30 p.m.
This Caribbean-themed event marks the CWF debut of Michael Nicholas, owner of Aunts et Uncles in Brooklyn. When Pete Wells reviewed it for the New York Times in 2021, he wrote its mock seafood made from hearts of palm was “a wonderful thing that has the feeling of a fresh discovery.”
Big in Japan ($135)
Friday, March 7, 4 p.m.-5:15 p.m.
Kumiko in Chicago is a hot ticket, and its price is $180, not including tax, tip, or drinks. For a fraction of the cost of that tasting menu, its acclaimed bartender, Julia Momosé, is mixing drinks with koji-based spirits.
The Dewberry Signature Dinner ($225)
Friday, March 7, 8 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
Slow! Down: The Craft of Making Fine Wines ($125)
Saturday, March 8, 11 a.m.-12:15 p.m.
Good Vines Only ($195)
Saturday, March 8, 2 p.m.-4:30 p.m.
Natural Wine: Savior of the Industry? ($145)
Saturday, March 8, 4 p.m.-5:15 p.m.
Say you only know natural wine as the trendy section of your wine shop. Or maybe you’re sold on the category. Either way, New York Times wine columnist Eric Asimov is worth hearing out on the topic.
The Day Party ($155)
Sunday, March 9, 11 a.m.-1:30 p.m.
A bunch of TFS friends are in the lineup for this event, including Nate and Chasity Brown of Daddy’s Girl Bakery, creator of the newsletter’s logo’ed cupcakes.
**Big Shrimpin’ ($175)
Sunday, March 9, 2 p.m.-4:30 p.m.
Seafood, Mount Pleasant’s Waterfront Park, and a bevy of chef standouts–including Russ Moore of SNOB, Dayna Lee of Comal 864 in Greenville, Keith Rhodes of Catch Restaurant in Wilmington, N.C, and Christine Lau— promise a good time with great food. This venue formerly held a wine-centric event, but this looks to be a solid reimagining of the spot as a festival venue with both the tourism arm and town of Mount Pleasant highlighting their shrimping history. Depending on the weather, it can be very windy, so plan accordingly.
The Finale ($155)
Sunday, March 9, 6:30 p.m.-9 p.m.
Should you want to walk around and eat small bites, The Finale is a good alternative to the Culinary Village.
Nigel’s Good Food closes after 15 years
Nigel Drayton announced on Facebook February 27 that Nigel’s Good Food on Ashley Phosphate Road in North Charleston has closed. Nigel’s has additional locations in Ladson and Hanahan, as well as a sister restaurant, Nola’s Creole & Soul on Dorchester Road in North Charleston, but the Ashley Phosphate location is the one that “put us on the map,” Drayton wrote. The lease for the original location ends in December, which was the catalyst for the decision, but Drayton has reconfigured management in other locations to showcase “how it was when we opened with great food.”
The Bread Line
Burbage’s Grocery on Broad Street is a consistent champion for local products, and you can also find fresh sourdough loaves delivered there on Tuesdays from Milled, a Charleston microbakery from Erica Elmenhurst and Katie Sexton Ratliff, who mill their own flour. Starting with wheat berries instead of shelf-stable flour is important to them because, according to their website, “you get all parts of the berry, rich in vitamins and nutrients. You will feel satisfied longer without the need for snacking.”
If you’re interested in Milled but can’t make it over to Burbage’s on the regular, you can also often score a loaf at Bucks Market & Deli, NY Butcher Shop on Daniel Island, Local Jo’s Natural Foods, Maddex Mercantile, Lillian’s Petite Market & Eatery, Healthy Thyme Meals, or sign up for the baker’s bread club on its website.
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