Bring out the lace napkins

Of the countless Mexican restaurants on both sides of the river in the Central Savannah River Area—a few of them good—Palmira Tienda y Taqueria has quickly gone to the top of many passionate eaters’ list of favorites. It is appropriate that this relative newcomer boasts the unequivocal web address: mexicanrestaurantaiken.com.

All by itself on a lonesome strip of Whiskey Road north of New Ellenton, it doesn’t look extraordinary. It certainly is not deluxe. At lunchtime, nearly every vehicle in the gravel parking area is a pickup truck that appears to have come from a job site.