Not long ago, few diners in western North Carolina were seeking out Ukrainian roast beef served over grits. But in the wake of Russia’s war against Ukraine—a conflict that has left nearly 1.5 million people dead—curiosity about Ukrainian cuisine has grown, and eating borscht or cabbage rolls has become, for some, a quiet act of solidarity.
Across the Carolinas, restaurants like Golden Hex in Cary, Atmosphera in Myrtle Beach, and Euro Foods in Charleston have seen a surge of interest from American-born eaters hungry for a way to support Ukraine. In Asheville, that appetite is now finding a home in the kitchen of Svitlana Eadie, a Ukrainian-born chef preparing to open her first brick-and-mortar cafe downtown.